Sun on Slate

The Mosel Valley is a region that truly captivates you, built on slate, sweat, and Riesling, with its impossibly steep vineyards rising dramatically from the banks of the winding river.

My journey led me to some of the most respected names in wine. I had the chance to visit producers like the iconic Dr. Loosen and Selbach-Oster right in the Mosel, and I also made a pilgrimage to the nearby Nahe region to the legendary Dönnhoff. Each tasting was a lesson in terroir, showing how a single grape can express itself so differently depending on the slate it's grown on.

But the trip was about more than what was in the glass. I remember hiking the narrow trails that cut through the vineyards, high above the river. Looking down, you get a real sense of the backbreaking work required to farm these slopes. It makes you appreciate every sip that much more.

One of the most perfect moments was also one of the simplest. I found a small cafe right on the riverside, ordered a classic schnitzel, and paired it with a glass of crisp, dry sparkling Riesling, known locally as Sekt. The bright acidity of the wine was the perfect counterpoint to the rich, fried schnitzel—a simple, delicious snapshot of German culture.

However, the visit that has stayed with me most was with Rita and Rudolf Trossen. Their commitment to biodynamic and natural winemaking is inspiring. I had the privilege of sitting down with Rudolf, and our conversation went far beyond tasting notes. We drank young wines from the tank and old wines from the cellar. We spoke of the deep history of generational winemaking in the Mosel, a tradition stretching back centuries. He also shared the profound struggles that family-run estates face today. With little interest from the younger generations to take over the demanding work, there's a real fear that this incredible legacy could be lost.

That conversation put the entire trip into perspective. The wines of the Mosel aren't just a beverage; they are a taste of history, true wines of place, a story of perseverance, and a deep connection to a unique and challenging landscape.

Published: May 15, 2025 - Zach Levan